August 31, 2007

The group has arrived at Sama village (by helicopter) which is at the base of Manaslu. I do not know the elevation at Sama village, but Keith did say they were higher than the summit of Mount Victoria at Lake Louise. They will stay there 2 days at a tea house to acclimatize, with some day hiking up the mountain. Keith says it's gorgeous and the people are very friendly. Apparently the group was over their weight limit for the helicopter ride, and some of their gear had to be left behind. The "gear" Keith was referring to was beer! Some poor sucker will be hauling it up the mountain on his back for them.....along with the goat for their supper.

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Last Three Days in Kathmandu

From Keith: 8:00am Wednesday Aug 29.

We have been in Kathmandu for three days now. We have been franticaly running about buying and haggeling and drinking beer. All of our team has showed up and are getting on fine. Gonzalo's lost bag showed up yesterday and he is quite a bit more relaxed than Monday. We have a new member joining us at the last minute, Mike Parker from Australia. Mike has just returned from Gasherbrum II in Pakistan and hasn't had enough suffering for one season so wants another 8000er this year. Good thing he did come along as our new friend Waz has a serious family emergency to take care of in Ecuador. Waz will be missed from our adventure...this time. The rest of the group is ready to go and all are very healthy.

We have all of our gear assembled and it will be getting on a truck for Pokhara this morning. Turns out our plans of flying from KTM to Sama won't happen as there is only one chopper running right now and it is stationed in Pokhara whick is a 5 hour drive or a 45 minute flight away. We will be on a twin otter this afternoon at 2:00 pm to fly to Pokhara. The thought of seeing the country on a truck is tempting, but not for 5 hours. We will spend the night in Pokhara drinking more beer and eating as much fresh food as possible, then tomorrow it's off to Sama Village. We plan on staying for two to three days in Sama to start the long acclimatization process. David and Mike are already acclimatized so maybe we can get them to carry our stuff to base camp...right.

Yesterday I had the privalege to go to the ministry of tourism to get our permits. It was a government holiday but they agreed to meet with us anyway. I was given two very nice books by the gov representative along with our permit and some yummy milk tea. It was very formal and a lot easier than I expected.

Last night we had a dinner in an old palace with local entertainment in the form of ethnic dancers and musicians. The food was fantastic with all kinds of unknown dishes and strange and powerful elixers. We were with seven other climbers who left for Cho Oyu this morning. They will be back shortly before us but I hope to hear how they fair on the sixth highest peak.

My thoughts on KTM are that it is a little caotic and very busy. I thought Mendoza was a moving violation but this place is undescribable. There are all forms of transportation crammed onto the smallest streets ever. The urban planning department should be named after Picaso.

Gear is not cheap here!! In fact new gear is more than in Canada and sometimes a lot more. Knock offs are everywhere and hard to tell from the real thing. It's a buyer beware place.

Keith

Leaving Kathmandu Tomorrow

Today I finally got my luggage coming from Europe, two bags with much equipment clothing and some food.
Today I spent the morning trying to send faxes to BA in Delhi and in London, and calling BA in Delhi. These Indians are exasperating. In the first call I was told "your bags are still missing, call in 2h". 2h afterwards they told me that they had been shipped to Ktm.
I went to the supermarket to buy food and the last necessities, then went to the barber to have a very short hair cut and my beard rasen.
This evening the whole group met for diner at an old renovated Rana palace out of town for a traditional Nepali diner with dances. We dined with a group of our agency that is going to climb Cho Oyu.
Bad news: Waz is leaving Nepal because his son is sick and he has to assist him! I am very sorry for him and for losing a good companion.
Surprisingly we learnt yesterday that we had an additional companion named Mick Parker from Australia who landed in our team under a parachute. Mick is about 34 and has climbed GII and Cho Oyu, and has failed Dhaulagiri, Kangchenjunga, Makalu. Mick has been this to year Dhaula and GII, and comes to Manaslu because he does not feel like returning to work!
Tomorrow we will fly on a small airplane to Pokhara. Contrary to what had been agreed with our agent, we have to board the helicopter in Pokhara because it will not come to Kathmandu!
All the equipment will travel on a truck by road and we will fly.
We will board the helicopter on Aug 30 early morning to Sama. Fortunately it will not alter any of our plans.
We learnt about a Swiss team coming to Manaslu, but it seems that they are coming 15 days later than we are, meaning that we will have to do all the trail breaking and route fixing.

Acclimatization

How it Works
Climbing at altitude needs an adaptation of the body functions to altitude: acclimatization.
Due to the low air pressure, the higher we climb, the less able is our body to obtain oxygen. In the Himalayas this happens above 5000m, depending on the individual.
Therefore we will need to force the body to produce more red cells in the blood. This is attained by climbing additional 800-1000m than the previous maximum altitude we were at, then retrieving to the base camp to allow the body to "digest" the alterations it is being subjected to.
If we went straight to altitude we could maybe climb 2000m in two days but we would risk becoming seriously sick with a edema: pulmonary or cerebral, or both and never return!
For a 8000m high mountain without great technical difficulties with a not too long itinerary we will need three to four climbs.
My method is that after each climb I sleep there, reinforcing the process.
Apart from the acclimatization evolution described there is also the need to place altitude camps. For each climb we carry tent, gaz, sleeping bags, food, ropes, etc. The tents stay there during the whole expedition mainly the ones at C1 and C2.
I show below a diagram of climbs and rest.
Normally 2 days rest between climbs is enough.
During the third climb, if we feel well, physically and psychologically, after placing camp 3 we may go to the summit in the early hours of the following day.
This should happen if there would be a terrible weather forecast for the following week!
Or we may opt to return to BC, rest 3 days and go up very light because all camps are already equipped with all food, gaz and equipment we will need for the summit push.
This schedule cannot be precise because we may face periods of bad weather with forced stays at BC. Frequent snow falls can also delay us because we would need to redo the trail and this is very energy consuming! If a big snow fall takes place the mountain will become safe again after 2-3 days of sunshine.
click on the image for a bigger picture

Naptse Bazzar

Well we're in Naptse Bazzar now which is quick frankly miles from anywhere and would you know it, they have an Internet Cafe, surreal!
Warwick & I flew to Lothse yesterday and have spent 2 easy days getting to Naptse Bazzar. As this first trip is guided (compulsory when trekking in the everest region) we get to stay in tea houses and eat proper food - yum!.
Today we had a 600 vertical metre hike up to Naptse Bazzar at 3,400 m) which was a wee wake-up call to the body. We have a day's rest here before moving further up the valley. We have another 3-4 days walking before getting to base camp and then sumitting Island Peak.
The scenary is simply jaw dropping and Trekking in Nepal should be on everyone's "must do" list. Today we hiked up a spectacular river gorge with spruce, juniper and magnolia (not in bloom unfortunately) forrests cascading down the mountain side. Everyone and then we would have to cross a swing bridge across the raging torrent which was the river below (this gets Waz really excited and we usually spend a good few minutes discussing the rapids and the best course through them. To me it just looks like liquid death but then I have canoed the White Nile)

Kathmandu

Well I'm in Kathmandu now and it was a bit of a shock moving back to a third world country from the cossited lifestyle of First World Hong Kong.
Arriving at the airport you are escorted by all manner of people wanting to carry your bags etc and it was a little overwelming. Fortunately I found the tour operator who we are working through and he escorted me away from it all. Still cost a bit in tips though so make sure you have a number of low denomination bills (say $1USD with you). Also you will need a Napali visa which you can get at the airport on arrival for $30USD.
On the way to the hotel the car was stopped a number of times by groups of youths who ran string across the road ro make cars stop. In each case there was a protracted discussion about payment of an impromptu road access fee. Fortunately our driver managed to get away without paying anything, which was good as I probably would have had to reimburse him.
The Hotel is about what you'd expect though a little grimmy. you do have hot and cold taps in the shower and however both have only supplied copious quantities of cold water. - No matter!
I spent the morning walking around Kathmandu which is a rabbit warren of narrow streets and what seems to be one continuous bazzar. Every now and then you would happen upon a small square containing one of more Hindu or Buddhist shrines and a market of some sort. The spice market(s) (not sure how many there are because I don't have a map of the town and have gotten lost a number of times) were great with sacks of spices open to the air and their scent wafting over the square.
Most of the street don't seem to be paved with anything other than the detrious of ruble from old buildings and garbage. The streets a very crowded with Rickshaws, small derelict cars, motorbikes and people. In amongst all this are cows, just ambling along and eating from the occasional pile of garbage. They seem to stay away from the produce that various people have laid out on the ground. Every now and then someone will come up an touch a cow and then their forehead as a blessing.
The tourist part of Kathmandu is well stock with climbing shops selling the discards of thousands of treks and mountainairing expeditions. You could basically arrive with nothing and completely stock up on everything you need. Three of the major outdoor firms (Black Diamond, Mountain Hardware & North Face) have even open their own stores here as well so you can buy new if you wanted (prices seem reasonable as well).
From a western sense, food items aren't as plentiful as you might be useful so I would suggest erring on the side of caution in case you can't find something you really want.
Warwick, arrives this afternoon and we commense planning the finer points of our trip to Island Peak (6100m). Commensing tomorrow.

Manaslu summary

Elevation: 8,163 metres
Ranked 8th
Location: Nepal
Range: Mansiri Himal, Himalaya
Prominence: 3,092 m
Coordinates: 28°33′N, 84°34′E
First ascent: May 9, 1956 by a Japanese team
Easiest route: snow/ice climb

Manaslu ( (मनास्लु, also known as Kutang) is the eighth highest mountain in the world, located in the Mansiri Himal, part of the Nepalese Himalayas. Manaslu is derived from the Sanskrit word Manasa and is translated as "Mountain of the Spirit".

Manaslu is the highest peak in the Gurkha massif and is located about forty miles east of Annapurna, the tenth highest mountain. The mountain's long ridges and valley glaciers offer feasible approaches from all directions, and culminate in a peak that towers steeply above its surrounding landscape, and is a dominant feature when viewed from afar.

Manaslu was first climbed on May 9, 1956 by Toshio Imanishi and Gyalzen Norbu, members of a Japanese expedition.

The Team

Canadian International Manaslu Expedition 2007

Keith Sanford, (41) Account Representative Canada
Keith has experience in many mountaineering disciplines. He is an accomplished mountaineer, ice climber, rock climber, and backcountry skier. Keith has climbed over 40 peaks in Western Canada, as well as over 160 ice climbs and rock climbs. In 2005, Keith successfully climbed the highest peak in the western hemisphere, Cerro Aconcagua (6959m) in Argentina via the false Polish Glacier route. Keith is an active leader and volunteer with the Alpine Club of Canada including three years on the Board of Directors.

Neil Bosch (38), Portfolio Manager Canada
Neil’s climbing experience extends to Europe, South America and the Canadian Rockies. His climbing resume includes 88 successful summits as well as the successful completion of the North Face Mountaineering Leadership Program. An active leader with the Alpine Club of Canada, Neil is also a certified Hiking Guide through the Association of Canadian Mountain Guides. Neil has run the Boston Marathon and was also the 2005 Canadian National Champion of the largest adventure race in North America.

David Morrison (47), IT Programmer New Zealand
David started climbing on Welsh slate in the 1980’s. Since then his travels have taken him through the Cordilla Blanca in Peru, the Alps of Switzerland and throughout New Zealand. David has been a volunteer with the New Zealand Alpine club where he taught rock and alpine snow craft. He also served as vice chair of the Wellington section for 5 years. David has studied the Takemusu style of Aikido (martial arts) for 30 years and he currently lives in Hong Kong.

Warwick White (44), Consultant, New Zealand
Warwick (Waz) has been climbing for close to 25 years. His long list of accomplishments includes Cho Oyu, Sierra del Cocuy, Alpamayo, Huascaran, Cotopaxi and Chimborazo. Waz spent time as a NZ Alpine Club instructor and volunteer with the NZ Club. Waz has also spent a great deal of time in a kayak; he has several first descents in South America and Africa. Waz is well accustomed to long expeditions and the conditions that go with them.

Toby Brodkorb (42), Water Treatment Engineer, Canada
22 years experience rock climbing, alpine mountaineering, glacier travel, 5 years experience waterfall ice climbing, backcountry skiing, alpine ice climbing. Most climbing experience in the Canadian Rockies including sixteen 11,000ft peaks while international climbing experience includes Peru, Mexico, Morocco, Spain and New Zealand.

Gonçalo Velez (49), Adventure Travel agency owner, Portugal
Climbing since 1983, with various alpine seasons in the French/Swiss Alps for climbing and ski mountaineering, then climbed Pik Korjenyevska (7104m) in 1990, Annapurna south face (8091m) in 1991, Cho Oyu (8200m) in 1997, attempted Shishapangma south face (8043m) in 1999 and Lhotse (8511m) in 2000, then climbed the summits of Kangchenjunga (8586m) in 2001 and Makalu (8470m) in 2002.
A climbing cv for Gonçalo Velez can be found here.

Manaslu, 8163m

Introduction
In August 2007, a group of mountaineers will travel to Nepal for another once in a lifetime opportunity. Our goal is to climb Manaslu, the eighth highest mountain on earth. We have chosen this mountain, not because it is easy, but because it is not. It is far from any civilization, far from home and far from what many see as an over-commercialized fantasy world that has become himalayan mountain climbing. Best of all for some of us, Manaslu has not been summited by a Canadian.
We are currently looking for interested souls with experience, time, money and most importantly the desire to work as a team to accomplish this goal. We currently have six confirmed participants, Neil Bosch of Edmonton, Canada, Toby Brodkord and Keith Sanford of Cochrane, Canada; two gents from New Zealand, Warwick White and David Morrison, and from Portugal Gonçalo Velez.
Experience at altitude is a must, along with climbing ability, glacier experience and a cool disposition that works well with others of simmilar personality.
We will fly to Sama Village at 3500m. Acclimitization, higher camps and the summit will be accomplished over a period of several weeks (itinerary attached). Typically, three or four higher camps are set up above base camp. This expedition will not have guides, sherpa support may be a possibility. We are planning on using the helicopter on the way out as well.

The Mountain
At 8156m or 26,781 ft, Manaslu ranks 8th highest among 14 peaks over 8000m; these are the 14 highest mountains on earth. Manaslu is located in the Ghurka Himal region of central Nepal near the Tibetan border. The mountain is accessible only by a 10 day trek of close to 90km (or by helicopter) through one of the least visited and most beautiful valleys in Central Nepal.

History
Mount Manaslu was first climbed in 1956 by a Japanese expedition. Its name comes from the Sanskrit word, manias, meaning "intellect" or "soul". It is the same root word as that for Manasarover, the holy lake near Mount Kailash in Tibet. Just as the British considered Everest their mountain, Manaslu has always been regarded as a “Japanese mountain” by the Japanese; because it was a Japanese expedition that first summited Manaslu. H.W. Tillman and Jimmy Roberts photographed Manaslu during a trek in 1950 but the first real survey of the peak was made by a Japanese expedition in 1952.
A Japanese team made the first serious attempt on the peak from the Buri Gandaki valley in 1953. When another team followed in 1954, the villagers of Samagaon told them the first team had been responsible for an avalanche that destroyed a monastery and refused to let the 1954 expedition climb. The expedition set off to climb Ganesh Himalayan instead.
Despite a large donation for the rebuilding of the monastery, subsequent Japanese expeditions, including the one that made the first ascent in 1956, took place in an atmosphere of animosity and mistrust. The second successful Japanese expedition was in 1971. There was a South Korean attempt in 1971, and in April 1972 an avalanche killed five climbers and 10 Sherpas ending the fourth ascent of mount Manaslu.
Due to its remote location, the difficulties involved in approaching the mountain and the hazards of its ascent, it does not see the high traffic that is attributed to some of the other Himalayan 8000m peaks.

Our Team Goals
We all know mountaineering is a hazardous and dangerous undertaking no matter where it is done. Conditions on Manaslu will range from blistering hot to freezing cold; days of boredom and days of intense physical hardships. The normal route uses three to four camps above base camp. The route in between each camp is glaciers, an icefall and steep ice slopes. Camps higher up the mountain must be set up and stocked with supplies.

We will rely on minimal or no Sherpa support for the climbing above base camp. Sherpa support will depend on the number of team members and whether all members are willing to accept Sherpa assistance and the associated cost. All team members should expect to assist in securing fixed lines and hauling loads to higher camps. Manaslu is famous for huge dumps of snow, so be prepared to shovel out tents and break trail once in a while.

Our first and foremost goal is the safe return home of all our team members…as friends. We all have stories of past expeditions that fail due to personality conflicts. Reaching the summit is very important to all of us, but it is never worth sacrificing a life or limb to achieve. Ed Viesturs sums it up when he says “reaching the top is optional, getting back down is mandatory”.

Our group is motivated and driven, but thoughtful and wary of the hazards and how they will be overcome. We will combine technical skills with years of experience to best reach our goals of a safe return home and the summit.

Itinerary

27 Aug. 2007 Day 01: arrive Kathmandu & transfer to hotel
28 Aug. 2007 Day 02: Prepare Expedition
29 Aug. 2007 Day 03: Expedition briefing in Ministry of Tourism
30 Aug. 2007 Day 04: Fly to Sama village from Kathmandu
31 Aug. 2007 Day 05: Sama Village, 3450m
01 Sep. 2007 Day 06: Sama Village – Manaslu Base Camp


02 Sep. – 08 October 2007
Days 8 - 43: 36 days climbing period for Manaslu 8163m.

BC – 4700m
C1 – 5900m
C2 – 7000m
C3 – 7450m

09 Oct. 2007 Day 44: Base camp – Sama Village
09 Oct. 2007 Day 45: Fly to Kathmandu by MI 17 Helicopter
10 Oct. 2007 Day 46: Kathmandu
11 Oct. 2007 Day 47: final Departure
11 Oct. 2007 Day 48: arrive home