Manaslu, 8163m

Introduction
In August 2007, a group of mountaineers will travel to Nepal for another once in a lifetime opportunity. Our goal is to climb Manaslu, the eighth highest mountain on earth. We have chosen this mountain, not because it is easy, but because it is not. It is far from any civilization, far from home and far from what many see as an over-commercialized fantasy world that has become himalayan mountain climbing. Best of all for some of us, Manaslu has not been summited by a Canadian.
We are currently looking for interested souls with experience, time, money and most importantly the desire to work as a team to accomplish this goal. We currently have six confirmed participants, Neil Bosch of Edmonton, Canada, Toby Brodkord and Keith Sanford of Cochrane, Canada; two gents from New Zealand, Warwick White and David Morrison, and from Portugal Gonçalo Velez.
Experience at altitude is a must, along with climbing ability, glacier experience and a cool disposition that works well with others of simmilar personality.
We will fly to Sama Village at 3500m. Acclimitization, higher camps and the summit will be accomplished over a period of several weeks (itinerary attached). Typically, three or four higher camps are set up above base camp. This expedition will not have guides, sherpa support may be a possibility. We are planning on using the helicopter on the way out as well.

The Mountain
At 8156m or 26,781 ft, Manaslu ranks 8th highest among 14 peaks over 8000m; these are the 14 highest mountains on earth. Manaslu is located in the Ghurka Himal region of central Nepal near the Tibetan border. The mountain is accessible only by a 10 day trek of close to 90km (or by helicopter) through one of the least visited and most beautiful valleys in Central Nepal.

History
Mount Manaslu was first climbed in 1956 by a Japanese expedition. Its name comes from the Sanskrit word, manias, meaning "intellect" or "soul". It is the same root word as that for Manasarover, the holy lake near Mount Kailash in Tibet. Just as the British considered Everest their mountain, Manaslu has always been regarded as a “Japanese mountain” by the Japanese; because it was a Japanese expedition that first summited Manaslu. H.W. Tillman and Jimmy Roberts photographed Manaslu during a trek in 1950 but the first real survey of the peak was made by a Japanese expedition in 1952.
A Japanese team made the first serious attempt on the peak from the Buri Gandaki valley in 1953. When another team followed in 1954, the villagers of Samagaon told them the first team had been responsible for an avalanche that destroyed a monastery and refused to let the 1954 expedition climb. The expedition set off to climb Ganesh Himalayan instead.
Despite a large donation for the rebuilding of the monastery, subsequent Japanese expeditions, including the one that made the first ascent in 1956, took place in an atmosphere of animosity and mistrust. The second successful Japanese expedition was in 1971. There was a South Korean attempt in 1971, and in April 1972 an avalanche killed five climbers and 10 Sherpas ending the fourth ascent of mount Manaslu.
Due to its remote location, the difficulties involved in approaching the mountain and the hazards of its ascent, it does not see the high traffic that is attributed to some of the other Himalayan 8000m peaks.

Our Team Goals
We all know mountaineering is a hazardous and dangerous undertaking no matter where it is done. Conditions on Manaslu will range from blistering hot to freezing cold; days of boredom and days of intense physical hardships. The normal route uses three to four camps above base camp. The route in between each camp is glaciers, an icefall and steep ice slopes. Camps higher up the mountain must be set up and stocked with supplies.

We will rely on minimal or no Sherpa support for the climbing above base camp. Sherpa support will depend on the number of team members and whether all members are willing to accept Sherpa assistance and the associated cost. All team members should expect to assist in securing fixed lines and hauling loads to higher camps. Manaslu is famous for huge dumps of snow, so be prepared to shovel out tents and break trail once in a while.

Our first and foremost goal is the safe return home of all our team members…as friends. We all have stories of past expeditions that fail due to personality conflicts. Reaching the summit is very important to all of us, but it is never worth sacrificing a life or limb to achieve. Ed Viesturs sums it up when he says “reaching the top is optional, getting back down is mandatory”.

Our group is motivated and driven, but thoughtful and wary of the hazards and how they will be overcome. We will combine technical skills with years of experience to best reach our goals of a safe return home and the summit.

Itinerary

27 Aug. 2007 Day 01: arrive Kathmandu & transfer to hotel
28 Aug. 2007 Day 02: Prepare Expedition
29 Aug. 2007 Day 03: Expedition briefing in Ministry of Tourism
30 Aug. 2007 Day 04: Fly to Sama village from Kathmandu
31 Aug. 2007 Day 05: Sama Village, 3450m
01 Sep. 2007 Day 06: Sama Village – Manaslu Base Camp


02 Sep. – 08 October 2007
Days 8 - 43: 36 days climbing period for Manaslu 8163m.

BC – 4700m
C1 – 5900m
C2 – 7000m
C3 – 7450m

09 Oct. 2007 Day 44: Base camp – Sama Village
09 Oct. 2007 Day 45: Fly to Kathmandu by MI 17 Helicopter
10 Oct. 2007 Day 46: Kathmandu
11 Oct. 2007 Day 47: final Departure
11 Oct. 2007 Day 48: arrive home